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Lower City to the Mountain

Shower glass · Hamilton

Frameless, framed and tub-front shower glass

Shower glass is house glass, cut for one opening in one washroom. A door that drips, drags or drifts often needs a hinge, a seal or a roller, not a whole new enclosure. We connect you with an independent local glass professional who does shower work. They measure, quote and do the job; we pass your request on and make sure it doesn't go quiet.

  • Seals and hinges fixed before anything's replaced
  • Measured to the walls you actually have
  • Quotes from independent local pros
Three drawings of one tiled shower: a frameless door on small clamps, a semi-frameless door beside a metal-edged panel, and a fully framed enclosure
Illustration. Frameless, semi-frameless and fully framed; red marks the metal.

What's going wrong

Leaks, sagging doors, worn seals and broken hinges

The usual causes, simplest first:

Water on the floor

Usually a worn sweep or split seal, plastic strips that wear out long before the glass. Or the caulk has cracked.

A door that sags or drifts

Loose hinge screws or a softened wall let a frameless door drop and catch. It can often be reset or rehung.

Brushed steel roller clamped to the top of a sliding glass shower panel, running on a square header bar fixed to grey tile

A sliding door that grinds or jumps

Worn rollers grind; a loose header bar lets the door jump. Both are parts, not glass.

The rollers and header bar on a sliding enclosure can be replaced on their own.

A chip or a crack

Chipped tempered glass can break later with little warning, so stop using the door. It can't be recut, so a broken panel means a new piece cut and tempered to size.

Fix or replace

Repair the hardware, or replace the enclosure?

If the glass is sound, keep it. Seals, a sweep, rehung hinges, new rollers or a proper recaulk fix most leaks and sags. A new enclosure makes sense when a framed unit has corroded, parts are gone, or you're gutting the bathroom anyway. The pro we match you with will say if a part is all it needs.

Redoing the washroom? The same pro can often cut a vanity mirror or niche shelves too.

Measuring

Measuring older bathrooms, where walls aren't square

A good share of Hamilton's houses predate the 1960s, and many Lower City washrooms have been redone more than once. Plaster bows, floors settle, old tubs sit off level. Tempered glass can't be trimmed once it's made, so all of that gets measured.

  1. Tile first, glass second

    Tile and grout change every gap the glass has to fill, so the measure waits until the tiler's done. Mid-renovation, the contractor running the job can book the glass pro for then.

  2. Every wall, at several heights

    The pro checks each wall top, middle and bottom for plumb, then plans a wider channel, a notched panel or a semi-frameless layout wherever it's out.

  3. Order, then install

    Panels are cut, drilled and tempered at a glass plant, so there's a wait before the install visit.

Choosing a build

Frameless, semi-frameless or fully framed: how they differ

It comes down to how much metal holds the glass, which changes the look and how true the walls need to be.

Semi-frameless

Metal on some edges, with a frameless-style door. A common fit in older washrooms, since the channel absorbs some unevenness.

Framed and tub-front

Metal around every panel, often sliding. The most forgiving where walls are out of plumb, and the usual swap for a curtain along a tub.

The glass itself

Clear, low-iron or frosted: choosing the glass

Whatever you choose has to be safety glass. The Ontario Building Code has long required tempered or laminated glass for shower and tub enclosures, and the pro works to the current edition.

Clear

The standard, with a faint green edge. Easiest to match later.

Low-iron

Whiter, most noticeable on thick panels against pale tile.

Frosted

Privacy in a small or shared washroom, and it hides spots.

Coated

Helps water sheet off and slows film build-up.

What affects the quote

What sets the price of custom shower glass

What moves the number:

  • Frameless, semi-frameless or framed, and how many panels
  • Glass thickness, and clear, low-iron or frosted
  • Hardware finish and how many pieces
  • How far the walls and tub are out of square
  • Removing an old enclosure
  • Stairs and tight halls in older houses

Ask for glass, hardware and labour as separate lines, not one lump sum, and check whether HST is included.

Get a shower glass quote

Free quotes from independent local pros.

Questions

Shower glass questions

Explore your options

Send a photo and rough sizes

Include the width and height, and whether it's a tub or a walk-in. We'll pass it to a local pro who does shower glass, and they'll say if a new seal or hinge will do.